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Jewellery as Art

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Jewellery as Art

Masterpieces from every fine art category, including high jewellery, will be vying for attention at TEFAF Maastricht, one of the world’s leading art fairs.

FINE JEWELLERY will share the spotlight with museum-quality art, antiques and design spanning 7,000 years of art history at TEFAF Maastricht, which is taking place from March 16th to 24th, 2019, at the MECC exhibition centre in Maastricht, The Netherlands.

Around 279 of the world’s leading dealers will display everything from antiques, Old Masters and jewellery to contemporary painting, and 20th century design.

TEFAF Maastricht is an unparalleled attraction for private collectors, museum curators, patrons, art market professionals, and art lovers from all over the world.

This year, the revitalised fair implemented a new, more transparent selection procedure, which has resulted in a number of new dealers being invited to participate. Of the 279 exhibitors taking part in TEFAF Maastricht 2019, some 40 are new to the fair.

The new exhibitors are spread across the eight sections (TEFAF Ancient Art, TEFAF Antiques, TEFAF Design, TEFAF La Haute Joaillerie, TEFAF Modern, TEFAF Paintings, TEFAF Paper and TEFAF Tribal), and there has been a major recalibration in TEFAF Modern, where 14 of the 40 new exhibitors will be situated.

New York-based Siegelson, one of two new jewellery dealers to TEFAF Antiques, is bringing a striking diamond and black lacquer ‘bande’ ring by Suzanne Belperron (1900– 1983), one of the most talented and distinctive jewellery designers of the 20th century. Belperron stepped away from the ideals of classical jewellery design and developed a signature style that placed emphasis in bold, curvaceous forms.

TEFAF La Haute Joaillerie, which can be found within TEFAF Antiques, welcomes a new exhibitor to the section – Cindy Chao. This section provides visitors with a highly curated selection of the world’s finest jewellers and jewellery dealers. Cindy Chao is presenting an exceptional ‘Greenovia Brooch’, crafted from titanium, 18-karat white gold and silver, set with a 105-carat chrysoberyl cat’s eye, diamonds and nearly 2,500 pieces of six varieties of green gemstones.

FD Gallery in TEFAF Antiques will be exhibiting the ‘Order of St. James of the Sword’ pendant, which was among the Royal Jewels from the Bourbon-Parma Family that went under the hammer at Sotheby’s in Geneva in November 2018. The pendant dating from the early 20th century has a central cross of 24 rubies surrounded by 16 diamonds. It fetched close to $40,000 in the Geneva auction, and will be up for grabs once again.

Symbolic & Chase, the last vintage jeweller on London’s iconic Bond Street, is presenting an eclectic collection of fine jewellery, which includes Art Deco brooches articulated with diamonds, amethyst and emeralds, and an enchanting 6.05-carat Burmese ruby and diamond ring among others.

“Whilst the focus is on 20th century European pieces, these are complemented by specially selected treasures spanning much of human history. By presenting contemporary, vintage and ancient pieces within innovative contemporary settings they open an important dialogue between modernity and tradition, proposing we re-evaluate our preconceived associations with jewellery and explore its artistic evolutions and revolutions,” states Symbolic & Chase on the TEFAF website.

Among the TEFAF regulars are G (Glenn Spiro), Hemmerle and Van Cleef & Arpels. Another familiar face, Wallace Chan is highlighting the Wheel of Time necklace, a wearable work of art, which itself encompasses 12 necklaces, each based on one of the twelve animals of the Chinese Zodiac.

Given the abundance of jewellery distinguished by its impeccable provenance, rarity, heritage and aesthetic beauty at TEFAF Maastricht, it isn’t hard to see why it continues to remain a touchstone for art fairs the world over.


BUTTERFLY-NEBULA

BUTTERFLY NEBULA
Wallace Chan
(Fuzhou, 1956)
On the Butterfly Planet, a pair of surreal butterflies with titanium bodies share a communicative frequency through the glittering patterns of gemstones on their wings. Yellow diamond, diamond, tsavorite garnet, pink sapphire, amethyst, ruby and titanium. Signed ‘Wallace Chan’. Hong Kong, 2018.
Exhibitor Wallace Chan


ROSE-PETAL-EAR-CLIPS

ROSE PETAL EAR CLIPS
(London, 1962)
Ear clips mounted in titanium and set with important rose-cut diamonds, natural lavender briolette diamonds, and trimmed with natural spinels on the petals. Signed ‘G’. London, 2018.
Exhibitor G


FAN’-EAR-CLIPS

‘FAN’ EAR CLIPS
(London, 1962)
‘Fan’ ear clips mounted in titanium and set with 62 carats of natural old mine baroque-shaped purple sapphires and 25 carats of natural blue spinels incorporating two half-moon white diamonds. Signed ‘G’. London, 2018.
Exhibitor G


ORDER-OF-ST-JAMES-OF-THE-SWORD’-PENDANT

‘ORDER OF ST. JAMES OF THE SWORD’ PENDANT
White enamel, diamond, ruby and gold, 5.7 x 2.8 x 0.6 cm. Early 20th century.
Exhibitor FD Gallery


BLACK-LABEL-MASTERPIECE-XVII-GREENOVIA-BROOCH

BLACK LABEL MASTERPIECE XVII ‘GREENOVIA BROOCH’
Titanium, 18-karat white gold and silver set with 105-carat chrysoberyl cat’s eye, diamonds and nearly 2,500 pieces of six varieties of green gemstones, 17.3 x 8.9 cm, 2018.
Exhibitor Cindy Chao The Art Jewel


CONVERTIBLE-CUFF-BRACELET-and-BROOCH

CONVERTIBLE CUFF BRACELET & BROOCH
Suzanne Belperron (Saint-Claude, 1900 – Paris, 1983) Platinum, white gold, ruby,
diamond and rock crystal. Paris, circa 1935.
Exhibitor Marjan Sterk Fine Art Jewellery


ART-NOUVEAU-‘PANSY’-BRACELET

ART NOUVEAU ‘PANSY’ BRACELET
René Lalique (Aÿ, 1860 – Paris, 1945)
Gold, sapphire, enamel, pearl and glass. Signed ‘LALIQUE’. Paris, circa 1901-02.
Exhibitor Epoque Fine Jewels


THE-WHEEL-OF-TIME

THE WHEEL OF TIME
Wallace Chan
(Fuzhou, 1956)
Twelve necklaces, one story – upon contemplation of the Chinese zodiac’s representation of time and our personal relationship to the greater universe, the cr eator sought to expr ess such spiritual interconnectedness through a wearable work of ar t. South Sea pearl 152.12 carats, yellow diamond 6.01 carats, sapphir e, diamond, titanium. Weight 300.7 g. Signed ‘W allace Chan’. Hong Kong, 2018.
Exhibitor Wallace Chan


NECKLACE-and-EARRINGS

NECKLACE & EARRINGS
Cartier
The ruby and diamond necklace, 1950, was designed as a series of textured gold double crescents forming a running scroll, joined by oblique clusters of cushion-cut rubies with brilliant-cut diamond accents; the earrings are similarly designed with the overlapping scrolls forming a knot around three stone cushion-cut ruby clusters.
Exhibitor S J Phillips Ltd


NECKLACE-and-EARRINGS-2

NECKLACE & EARRINGS
Dorrie Nossiter (England, 1893-1977)
Necklace and earrings, with removable brooch/pendant set with natural seed pearls and mixed gems, including citrine, aquamarine, topaz, and alexandrite, set in gold and gilded silver. England, circa 1930.
Exhibitor A La Vieille Russie


ART-NOUVEAU-PENDANT

ART NOUVEAU PENDANT
Masriera Hermanos
Art Nouveau pendant made with 18-karat gold, plique-ajour enamel and diamonds.
Signed ‘Masriera Hs.’ Barcelona, circa 1900.
Exhibitor VKD Jewels


ART-DECO-‘FOUNTAIN’-BROOCH

ART DECO ‘FOUNTAIN’ BROOCH
Diamonds Height 4.5 cm. Signed ‘Marzo Paris’. Paris, circa 1925.
EXHIBITOR Symbolic & Chase


CUSHION-SHAPED-RING

CUSHION-SHAPED RING
Burmese unheated 6.05-carat ruby and diamond.
Exhibitor Symbolic & Chase


ART-MODERNE-BRACELET

ART MODERNE BRACELET
Jean Despres (Souvigny, 1889 – Avallon, 1980)
Emerging in the later years of the Art Deco movement, a new design aesthetic called Art Moderne was formed combining the geometry of the period, influenced by Cubism, with the aesthetics of modern machinery. This bracelet by Jean Després is an iconic example of Art Moderne design combining powerful simplicity with machine-inspired design. Silver and black lacquer. Signed ‘J. Després’ and with maker’s mark. Paris, 1931.
Exhibitor Siegelson


RING

RING
Tsavorite, aluminium and white gold, 2016.
Exhibitor Hemmerle


DIAMOND-adn-BLACK-LACQUER-‘BANDE’-RING

DIAMOND & BLACK LACQUER ‘BANDE’ RING
Suzanne Belperron (Saint-Claude, 1900 – Paris, 1983)
Featuring a central band of diamonds sided by stepped shoulders in black lacquer, this silver and platinum ring is an elegant and bold Art Deco design evoking a spinning wheel or machine part. This iconic ring is an unusual example of one of the final designs Suzanne Belperron created for René Boivin that she continued making while she formed her partnership with Bernard Herz. Paris, circa 1934.
Exhibitor Siegelson


EARRINGS

EARRINGS
Jade, tsavorites, silver, aluminium, white gold, 2017.
Exhibitor Hemmerle


PENETRABILE-PAIR-OF-LARGE-EARRINGS

‘PENETRABILE’, PAIR OF LARGE EARRINGS
Jesús Rafael Soto (Venezuela, 1923 – France, 2005)
These silver and silver-gilt earrings were designed by Jésus Rafael Soto, one of the foremost exponents of optical and kinetic art, for GEM Montebello, Milan in 1968. Only 35 pairs were created.
Silver, silver-gilt with thin kinetic rods. Milan, 1968.
Exhibitor Didier Ltd.


VICTORIAN-BRACELET

VICTORIAN BRACELET
Designed as a solid hinged bangle with a central row of large old European brilliant-cut diamonds collet set between two outer rows of small old Europeans, all set in silver on gold; the central row detaches to form a classically elegant line bracelet of impressive proportions. It features 29.8 carats
of old cut diamonds set in silver on gold. Circa 1890.
Exhibitor Hancocks

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