Indian bridal jewellery tends to be region-specific and often the jewels are loaded with cultural and traditional symbolism. Each piece of jewellery has relevance for its inclusion. In continuation with our six-part series, ADORN presents some exquisitely handcrafted jewellery pieces worn by a bride from Bengal. Abounding with naksha (embroidery), filigree (fine wire work) and enamel, the delicate and tantalising jewellery pieces seem like lightweight gold drapes. The Bengali bride-to-be is spoilt for choice as she goes about selecting jhumkas, kaan balas, lahiri haars and chik to bedeck herself for the special day. The crowning glory, of course, is a mukut (ornate headdress) that makes her look like a princess.
All Jewellery | P.C. CHANDRA JEWELLERS, KOLKATA
Illustration | SAUDAMINI TAMBAY
Chur – A broad bangle with a convenient clasp is an intricate piece of craftsmanship. Combining handcrafted filigree motifs with a touch of enamel work, this chur is shaped in a closed-U pattern. Filigree is also combined with beads or twisted wires and threads, soldered together to the surface of an object of the same metal and arranged in artistic motifs. Some bangles have an interplay of textures and openwork designs.
A large aanghthi (finger ring) is a blend of Indian and Victorian styles featuring a relief of Queen Victoria in the centre. The rounded edges are highlighted alternately in filigree and work on gold sheet.
Full-bodied and symmetrical haar is a traditional and popular ornament among Bengali brides. Crafted in naksha work, the necklace bears floral patterns carved directly on the surface of the metal. The heavily clustered symmetrical tassels add a delicate and feminine touch to the ornament.
The Bengali bride typically wears lahiri haar (lahiri means waves) that has symmetrical and flat chains which are up to 1-inch broad. The body of the necklace is adorned with naksha, filigree and enamelling work. The chains are joined together to form a single piece. The individual necklaces/strands are variously designed. A set of five chains is called pancha lahiri and one with seven layers is called sapta lahiri and are joined by clasps and larger flowers which are woven in these individual necklaces to form one single piece.
The filigreed jhumkas bear symmetrical or asymmetrical patterns. The jhumkas generally have a cluster of hollow gold balls and sometimes they also have fine suspended tassels.
The filigreed jhumkas bear symmetrical or asymmetrical patterns. The jhumkas generally have a cluster of hollow gold balls and sometimes they also have fine suspended tassels.
The 22-karat handcrafted mukut (crown) is made with naksha and filigree work. Mukuts in white sholapith are also famous.
The 22-karat handcrafted mukut (crown) is made with naksha and filigree work. Mukuts in white sholapith are also famous.
Traditional Bengali tiklis (maang tikkas) in 22-karat gold have delicate gold tassels and feature enamelled and gem-set motifs.
The pair of kaan balas is inspired by the shape of a round bangle (kaan means ear and bala means bangle). The suspended beads from the kaan bala are a classic symbolism of Bengali jewellery.
The pair of kaan balas is inspired by the shape of a round bangle (kaan means ear and bala means bangle). The suspended beads from the kaan bala are a classic symbolism of Bengali jewellery.
Traditional Bengali tiklis (maang tikkas) in 22-karat gold have delicate gold tassels and feature enamelled and gem-set motifs.
The filigreed jhumkas bear symmetrical or asymmetrical patterns. The jhumkas generally have a cluster of hollow gold balls and sometimes they also have fine suspended tassels.
The filigreed jhumkas bear symmetrical or asymmetrical patterns. The jhumkas generally have a cluster of hollow gold balls and sometimes they also have fine suspended tassels.
Chik or choker is a close-fitting necklace, worn high on the neck. The pure gold chik is almost an inch wide and has been very popular from ancient times in Bengal. Filigree, naksha and enamelling are the three major techniques used to craft it.
Chik or choker is a close-fitting necklace, worn high on the neck. The pure gold chik is almost an inch wide and has been very popular from ancient times in Bengal. Filigree, naksha and enamelling are the three major techniques used to craft it.
Ratanchur (hand ornament) also called haath phool, has its origins in Mughal culture. The wrist-to- fingers ornament is decorated with motifs of the moon, lotus and the sun.
Mantasha is an elegant bangle embedded with precious stones and sometimes embellished with meenakari work. In earlier days, the mantasha was made in the form of a flexible bangle woven in parts so as to cover the entire wrist. With changing times, because of rising gold prices and the inclination towards lighter jewellery, the pattern has changed to take shape of something like the picture to the left. Mantashas are generally made in 22-karat gold and require a minimum of 20 grams of gold.
Mantasha is an elegant bangle embedded with precious stones and sometimes embellished with meenakari work. In earlier days, the mantasha was made in the form of a flexible bangle woven in parts so as to cover the entire wrist. With changing times, because of rising gold prices and the inclination towards lighter jewellery, the pattern has changed to take shape of something like the picture to the left. Mantashas are generally made in 22-karat gold and require a minimum of 20 grams of gold.
Gaala bhora bala are gold bangles made with wax filling featuring naksha work. The bangles have holes on either side from which the gaala (a special malleable alloy) is poured into the hollow bangles to prevent the carvings from being dented, and to make them durable for daily wear. The bengali gaala bhora bala bangles are unique because of their designs which range from fishnets to motifs bearing the mouth of a lion, peacock or an elephant.
Noth (nose ring) is an important part of the wedding attire. The first one is a simple piece with a red enamelled flower and a pearl drop. the other heavier noth has a larger filigreed motif and beads on the entire length of the nath. It is believed that bigger the noth, the higher the status of the bride.
Noth (nose ring) is an important part of the wedding attire. The first one is a simple piece with a red enamelled flower and a pearl drop. the other heavier noth has a larger filigreed motif and beads on the entire length of the nath. It is believed that bigger the noth, the higher the status of the bride.
