Jewellery forms an intrinsic part of a bride’s trousseau and shopping for it is an elaborate affair. Bridal jewellery not only enhances a bride’s beauty but also offers financial security in times of adversity. Motifs on the jewellery
reflect rich tradition and culture which symbolise wealth, prosperity and good luck. In a diverse country like India, bridal ornaments integrate the flavour of religion and region. In the first of a six-part series, adorN displays some typical ornaments that a bride from Maharashtra wears on her D-day.
All Jewellery | P.N. Gadgil & Sons, Pune
Illustration | Saudamini Tambay
The Ambada veni phool (hair ornament) is crafted in 22-karat and adorned on a bun. the ornament is rendered with different motifs, but the popular one is the sunflower with jowar beads. the piece also uses lac and a ruby. the Awati (die) used to make this piece is 150 years old.
The pearl studs called kudya are mounted in 22-karat yellow gold and each stud typically has seven Basra pearls.
The Kolhapuri saaz is so popular that it even doubles up as a mangalsutra for some brides. A traditional saaz consists of scenes depicting dashavtaar or the 10 avatars of Lord Vishnu. The saaz is a long necklace that includes gold jowar beads, carved leaves, conch, genda berunda (two-headed mythological bird) that bestows power, or matsya, an avatar of Lord Vishnu. the necklace ends with a ruby pendant called dorala. The saaz is famous in Belgaum, Kolhapur and the southern belt of Maharashtra.
The Belpaan necklace takes its inspiration from the bilva-patra (bel leaves). the trefoil leaves are considered sacred and are offered to propitiate Lord Shiva. The leaves also represent the Hindu holy trinity of Brahma, Vishnu and mahesh. this particular necklace is crafted with 150-year old dies. The golden leaves are placed on a bed of thick silk band; and the Belpaan necklace is sprinkled with hollow, gold jowar beads.
This is an optional ornament, but the 22-karat ear cuffs are popular among brides in the south of Maharashtra.
Shindeshahi Tode are 23-karat handmade gold kadas weighing around 250 to 300 grams each and are noted for their flexibility. the entirely hammered kadas are interlinked without soldering. the heavy bangles take up to a month to make.
Chattai Vaki is an armband that resembles a woven mat (chattai). the handmade ornament is crafted with 23-karat gold wire. The band is not soldered except where the ruby-set floral motif is placed. ruby symbolises the sun and the red colour is considered auspicious for Hindu brides.
The Putli haar is composed of 23-karat flat, round gold coins strung on a silk braided patwa cord. the coins are die-pressed with motifs of Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth, Lord Ram and his consort sita, or other local deities. the necklace has been popular with Maharashtrian brides since the 17th century.
Brahmani nath, an elaborate ornamented nose pin, is a must-have in the repertoire of a maharashtrian bride. the 22-karat curved nath is focused on an uncut diamond with a surround of rare Basra pearls. Sparkling rubies and lush green emeralds add colour to this nose pin that has been famous since the time of the Peshwa rule.
Thushi, which has its origins in Kolhapur, is a 22-karat gold choker that is either fully composed of small gold beads or is fringed with two layers of gold beads on a patterned necklace. the jondhali beads are hollow and represent jowar (white millet). The jowar gold seeds symbolise that the bride’s new home will always be blessed with abundant food supply. the choker is centred on a peacock or an elephant motif set with a ruby. the dancing peacock is a sign of good monsoon, thus indicating a bigger harvest.
Instead of Thushi, the bride can also opt for a 22-karat chaphekali haar, a floral necklace inspired by a string of frangipani buds. red gemstones are added for colour.
